New! Shannon Cuddle Fabric and Kits

We have finally jumped on the Shannon Cuddle bandwagon here at the store.  I've always loved how soft it is, but there's so much selection that I couldn't decide which colors or styles to begin with.  Shannon Fabrics made that decision easy for me by packaging pre-cut kits!

The first type of kits are the strip kits.  There are two sizes; the Throw quilt size finishes at approximately 48"x58" and includes (11) 5"x58" pre-cut strips.  The Lap quilt size finishes at approximately 58"x72" and includes (17) 5"x58" pre-cut strips.  You will need to purchase batting, backing and binding separately.  With the "throw" size, the strips are placed vertically on the quilt.   On the "quilt" size, the strips run horizontally on the quilt.

We have several varieties of the Throw-sized quilt kits available:  Mocha Blue, Mocha Pink, Owls (Orange & Brown), and Tiffany (Red & Aqua).   You will also need to purchcase 1-3/4 yards of Cuddle for the backing and binding.

We also have a variety of Lap-sized quilt kits available:  Black & Red, Animal Print, Olive & Brown, and Raspberry Chocolate.  You will need to purchase 2-1/2 yards of Cuddle for the backing and binding.
   
Many of you have told me that you are a little bit leery of sewing on Cuddle or Minky because it's stretchy.  Here's a great how-to video that makes sewing these kits a breeze.

After you sew your row-by-row quilt, then you have to bind it.  Here's another great video on using the Cuddle Cloth for binding.

That wasn't so scary, was it?

We also have the Cuddle Critter kits in stock - these are adorable stuffed animals paired with 2 squares of coordinating Cuddle Cloth.  You can make a blankie for the animal out of the 2 squares, or you can do some "surgery" on the animal and create a one-of-a-kind blankie with the head of the critter on one end and the feet on the other.  What an adorable luvvie for a young one to carry around!  There's even a video on how to do this if the written instructions in the kit aren't clear to you.

We currently have all the critters in stock:  Penelope the Pig, Poochie the Puppy, Enzo the Elephant, Maddy the Monkey, Fergie the Frog, Bailey the Bear and Darla the Duck.  As you can see in the video, you can create a Critter Blanket from any stuffed animal including Ty Beanie Babies.

Are you ready to cuddle up with a Cuddle Kit?

English Paper Piecing Tutorial

As I promised last week, here is my English Paper Piecing tutorial.  Before we begin, there are a few caveats I'd like to make:

• There are many ways and methods to English Paper Piece.  This is how I do it.  I've been piecing in earnest now for about two years and it works for me.  There is no "right" or "wrong" way to do it - do whatever works for you. 
• I'll be assembling a Double Diamond using 1" hexagon papers.
• I am right-handed.  If you are left-handed, sew in the reverse of the photos.
• I should have trimmed my nails and used hand lotion before I started.  Forgive my winter dryness!

I've assembled the complete array of supplies that I use.

Hexagon Papers, a glue stick, a Clover Desk Needle Threader, junk thread for basting, Mettler Embroidery Thread (60 wt.), a small pair of embroidery scissors, Clover Black Gold #10 applique needles, Piecemakers #8 embroidery needles, Thimblepads, large shears, pre-cut 2-1/2" squares

Let's begin.  Use a small dab of glue to temporarily hold the paper to the fabric squares. I use a cheap, discount store glue stick - if it dries out or begins to get gummy, I throw it away and use a new one.

Use your large shears to trim away the excess, leaving a 1/4" seam allowance.  Just eyeball it - it's better to err on the side of bigger than smaller!

Once all your squares are glued and trimmed, you'll use your junk thread and the embroidery needles to baste the fabric to the papers.  I discovered a cache of old Coats and Clark thread and use that.  You can also use up threads on old bobbins to clear them off.  This is thread you will discard later, so don't use the good stuff.

I thread-baste through the paper.  Many baste only the corners from the back, but I have trouble keeping longer sides taut for whip stitching later using that method.  It doesn't take that long to baste through the papers, and it does not prevent your papers from being reusable later. 

Cut a length of thread about 20" or so, thread your needle and make a large knot.  Pick up your paper piece and fold the seam allowance to the back.  Beginning in the middle of a side, insert your needle from the top to the back, making sure that you catch the seam allowance in the back.

Fold the fabric in the corner (I call it a "hospital corner") and insert your needle back to the front. Be sure that you sew through both layers of the corner.

Continue basting around the piece, going to the back on the sides and coming back up through the corners.  When you get back to the side where you started, take a small stitch  to bring youir thread to the top and cut cut it, leaving a 3/4" tail.  Do not make a knot!

 Here's what it should look like from the back.

Once you have basted all your papers, you can lay them out.

It's time to begin sewing the pieces together.  I use the Clover Black Gold #10 Applique needles and Mettler Embroidery Thread (60 wt.) for this step.  The Black Gold needles are thin and really sharp, and the smaller thread makes a finer stitch.  I find that using the Clover Desk Needle Threader invaluable.  My eyes are not what they used to be!  I also use leather Thimblepads instead of a thimble.  They have an adhesive backing that sticks to the pad of of your finger.  At the end of a sewing session, I take it off my finger and place it back on the slick paper it came from.  I can use a single pad many times - until the adhesive wears off.  Then I use a new one.

Pick up your center piece and the first petal and place them right sides together, matching corners.  Thread your needle with about 18" of thread and make a knot.  Insert your needle between the paper and the seam allowance to hide the knot.

Begin whip stitching to join the pieces.  Start at the corner and slide your needle through the threads of the fabric at the edges of the papers.  You don't want to pierce the paper; you just want to graze the edges of the paper with your needle.

Continue taking stitches down the length of the side, grabbing edges of the fabric and just grazing the edges of the papers.

When you reach the second corner, take a second stitch in the corner and knot the thread off.

Now to add the next piece.

 

Place the 3rd piece right sides together.  You're going to be sewing a Y-seam, but just concentrate on one side at a time.  Slide your needle under the seam allowance and whip-stitch toward the "Y" corner.

Once you reach the "Y" corner, take a second stitch.

Flip the piece up, and then fold it back down, matching edges with the yellow center.  The first pink piece will bend inward - the paper is flexible enough to allow that.

Continue stitching to the left corner. Take a double stitch and knot off.

You have 3 pieces sewn together! 

 Continue adding pieces until your first ring of the diamond is complete. 

Notice that the yellow center is now surrounded by other pieces.  Once a piece is completely surrounded, you can remove the basting stitches and the underlying paper.  I use the tip of my embriodery scissors to unthread the basting and pull out the thread by the knot on top.

Remove the paper and save it for later reuse.  If you have pierced the paper with your stitching, just give it a yank.  Once you have the knack for whip-stitching, you'll pierce the paper less often.

Add the outer ring of pieces.  Remove the basting threads and papers from the inner ring.

Here's a look at the back.  All of the papers that you have removed can be used again.  I have personally used papers 5 or 6 times.  If the corners of the paper get worn and you have trouble making a sharp fabric corner, discard the paper.

That's all there is to it!  The basting and whip-stitching is the same for any shape or block that you'd like to Paper Piece.

Now, a little hint about the paper pieces.  The size of the piece is determined by the LENGTH of the side.  1" hexagon papers measure 1" along the sides, not across the width.  All pieces labelled 1" will work together (or whatever size you choose to work with).

I cut all my fabrics into squares or rectangles before I begin.  I measure the width and heighth of the paper I am using and add at least 1/2" in each direction.  Beginning with squares and rectangles is much quicker than trying to fussy cut the correct shape.

Click here to get free paper piecing patterns and design sheet downloads from Paper Pieces.

I hope you enjoy English Paper Piecing as much as I do!  It's a quick, easy, and portable project to take on the go!

"Hot Dog" Pillowcase Tutorial

The Quilt Asylum is proudly participating in the One Million Pillowcase Challenge sponsored by American Patchwork and Quilting.  We are collecting pillowcases through the end of the year benefitting The Samaritan Inn - Collin County's only homeless shelter.

Pillowcases are a great way to clean out your stash, teach a novice seamstress how to sew, or coordinate your bedroom linens with your quilts.  Our "Hot Dog" pillowcase method will have you making professional looking pillowcases with no raw edges in only 3 seams!

Materials Required:

3/4 yd focus fabric for body of pillowcase

1/8 yd (cut to 2" x WOF) for optional accent trim

1/4 yd fabric for cuff

If you are adding the optional accent trim, cut a 2" x WOF strip and press in half with wrong sides together.

On your table, layer your cuff fabric face up [this is the "bun"], the optional trim strip with the raw edges toward the top, and your pillowcase fabric face down.  If you are using a directional print, make sure you pin the BOTTOM of the fabric.  The left side of this photo shows the layers in the proper order.  The right side shows all the layers even and pinned along the top edge.  Don't worry about the selvedges.  We'll take care of that later.  Just line up everything even on the left side and let the right side be uneven.

Roll or fold up the pillowcase body fabric [this is the hot dog], stopping just below the pin points along the top edge, leaving the cuff fabric flat on the table.

Bring the lower edge of the cuff fabric up to the pinned edge and pin all 4 layers together (cuff, trim, body, cuff), making sure that your "hot dog" is out of the way of the pinned seam. 

This is what your rolled up and pinned "hot dog" should look like.  Take your "hot dog" to your machine and sew the raw edge with a 1/4" seam.

Once you have sewn your cuff/trim/body seam, you'll need to turn it right side out.  Pull the cuff fabric with your left hand while pulling out the body fabric with your right hand.  Once everything is right side out, you will have a completely enclosed cuff seam.

Press the cuff flat with your iron, keeping the trim pointed towards the body of the pillowcase.

If you chose to include the optional trim piece, and you want to topstitch it down - now is the time. 

 

Now you need to clean up the selvedge edges.  On your cutting mat, fold your pillowcase in half matching the raw edge of the pillowcase body to the folded edge of the cuff.  Cut the selvedges off both sides.

It's time to sew the first part of a French seam.  This will encase the raw edges of your pillowcase.  Fold your pillowcase in half lenthwise [wrong sides together}, and sew the edge and the bottom with a 1/4" seam, pivoting in the corner.

Trim the corners and turn your pillowcase wrong side out.  Press the folds of the seams.

Sew a 3/8"or 1/2" seam over the original 1/4" seam, again pivoting in the corner, making sure that you are completely enclosing the original 1/4" seam allowance.

Voila!  You're finished!  Turn your pillowcase right side out and press!

Wasn't that easy???